Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Electric Motors and Controllers
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neptronix   100 GW

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 25 2015 12:16am

If you order the default winding, the 4T..
For a 26" wheel, you will want a controller and battery capable of pushing 60 amps continuous during acceleration or hill climbing in order to hit the top speed of the motor and have decent torque.

60A x 48V = 2880W peak.

Your continuous wattage at 100% speed will be about 2000W, or approx. 41A continuous.
You'll want nothing smaller than a 12FET 4011, or preferably 3077 FET controller in order to do this. I run an 18FET 4011 controller myself with this winding, because i wanted large amounts of thermal overhead, as i run about 90-100 amps. Even the 12FET 3077 ( lowest resistance FET type is the 3077 ) would get hot on 80A.

For this winding, i would use either a RC Lipo type pack above 20AH or A123 pack around 20AH as well in order to deliver the needed current. 20C Lipo would work.

If you want something other than the two above chemistries, you're going to need 40-60AH worth most likely, if you're dealing with a 2C-5C chemistry. 1C is out of the question unless you can figure out how to jam 50-60AH into the triangle.

The 4T is an amp guzzler, not a volt guzzler..
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by mchlpeel » Jun 25 2015 1:25am

I intend to run the 4t with a Samsung 25R 22.1Ah pack from em3ev

I will also be using an 18 fet controller set to 60 amps max

The 25r is 8c rated so amps shouldn't be much of an issue

Thanks for the info

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 25 2015 2:16am

I looked at a discharge graph for that cell ( 25R ).

Image

Personally, i'd pick a battery that's capable of higher discharge, but if you're okay with some voltage sag and energy loss, this pack should work up to 60A peaks, but seems happiest at 2C-ish ( ~44A ).

em3ev says 8C, but really.. batteries tend to perform best at 1/4th their max rating, thus 2C for this pack.

If you ever want to push beyond 60A ( which is fun, don't get me wrong ), you'll want another battery with a bit more kick to it.

Though you are in the UK, right? so i figure your use might be different. My bike's basically designed to accelerate alongside cars since i have no bike lane.. hence the thoughts of dumping such crazy amperage into it.. :)
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by mchlpeel » Jun 25 2015 2:26am

Thanks for the Graph,

I am looking at the 25R pack because it is a simple plug and play system
I dont think there is anything else on the market that would be more suitable.
LIPO is too maintenance heavy and Im unsure of another technology that would be suitable.

At 60Amps Max it will still be less than 3C so the voltage sag shouldnt be much more significant than 2C. Maybe 1.5v more with a 14S pack?

Does anyone know if the new 3mm phase wires are capable of sustaining this amperage?

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 25 2015 2:35am

I understand that you don't wanna DIY things or deal with the safety issues of RC Lipo.
I don't pay much attention to BMSed battery packs myself, but this is certainly one of the more powerful prebuilt packs for sure, and em3ev is known for quality in pack building, so i say go for it.

For max efficiency, i'd pair this with one of his 3077 12FET controllers. Get the 3 speed switch as well. The maximum efficiency point of the motor is about 30mph or 1000W, so program the 12FET controller to have one of it's 3 speed settings to equal to that speed.

The larger phase wires should be fine up to 60A, just as a guess. I just cut the original ~16ga. ones i had about an inch out of the axle and replaced with 12 gauge. Works great for me - haven't noticed any warmth, despite the fact that i've been torturing the **** out of this motor for a while :lol:
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 25 2015 2:39am

Ps, who has a 5T motor? what are the unloaded speeds on 49v? or just the kV figure - and i'll do the math..
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by mchlpeel » Jun 25 2015 3:20am

neptronix wrote:I understand that you don't wanna DIY things or deal with the safety issues of RC Lipo.
I don't pay much attention to BMSed battery packs myself, but this is certainly one of the more powerful prebuilt packs for sure, and em3ev is known for quality in pack building, so i say go for it.

For max efficiency, i'd pair this with one of his 3077 12FET controllers. Get the 3 speed switch as well. The maximum efficiency point of the motor is about 30mph or 1000W, so program the 12FET controller to have one of it's 3 speed settings to equal to that speed.

The larger phase wires should be fine up to 60A, just as a guess. I just cut the original ~16ga. ones i had about an inch out of the axle and replaced with 12 gauge. Works great for me - haven't noticed any warmth, despite the fact that i've been torturing the **** out of this motor for a while :lol:
Forgive my lack of knowledge.

The 12 fet 3077 is more efficient but it appears to only have a 40A current limit?

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route= ... duct_id=81

Would the controller not just limit the amps to 40 or can I program it for higher amps.

If it is possible would the controller handle 20A over its rated output?

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 25 2015 3:31am

The current limit is programmable with the cable. 60A is safe for that controller and motor combo. Just make sure that the controller is exposed to air so that it can cool.
A 4011 12fet on the other hand, won't do it.

It's all in the low resistance of the 3077 FETs. :)

You're pushing it on that controller if you go above 70A though. What i found the weak link to be was the phase wires, battery wires, and phase traces.
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by mchlpeel » Jun 25 2015 4:14am

thats good info about the 3077

I will change my shopping list from the 18 Fet to the 12fet 3077 as I dont forsee going above 60A.

edit
Nep you have recommended the above controller but your vid on YouTube suggests that the motor cannot withstand the 65 amps you put it through. It kinda worries me a bit when I'm going to be running 60 amps

http://youtu.be/16GJj8mfYfs

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by Kodin » Jun 25 2015 2:43pm

Re: oil seal possibilities: I'll take accurate bore gauge measurements either tonight or this weekend of both styles of disk side cover and freewheel/cassette bores for those that asked. My micrometers are SAE unfortunately, so that's the unit you'll get them in. :cry:

Nep, I'll give you RPM measurements when I have a controller that can drive mine. Won't be until end of the month before I can afford it though as I'm going Sabvoton 48V/100A. IIRC the new-style models are ~$300-ish.
Tank Bike - (Previously YAG - Yet Another Genesis) - LeafBike 1500W 5t, custom shaft, 9 speed cassette, Chinese "Tank" EEB clone frame, Sabvoton SSC048150

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 25 2015 3:17pm

You misinterpreted my video.
I was talking about a 4011 12FET controller inside a bag ( no air cooling ) being too hot.
Literally the worst case scenario.

The motor was barely warm after being flogged up and down 8% grades without pedaling.

What overheats the motor is climbing steep hills that last miles at the 120% setting, which results in 40-45mph and a total power draw of around 4000W constant.

I hate to say 'read the entire thread' here, but i made that point clear multiple times in this thread and also in the later videos.
mchlpeel wrote:thats good info about the 3077

I will change my shopping list from the 18 Fet to the 12fet 3077 as I dont forsee going above 60A.

edit
Nep you have recommended the above controller but your vid on YouTube suggests that the motor cannot withstand the 65 amps you put it through. It kinda worries me a bit when I'm going to be running 60 amps

http://youtu.be/16GJj8mfYfs
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by mchlpeel » Jun 25 2015 3:30pm

Ok

I watched again you're right you never actually said it was a 3077 and I understand you had it in a bag

Sorry for that.

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by teklektik » Jun 25 2015 4:16pm

Kodin wrote:I'll take accurate bore gauge measurements ... of both styles of disk side cover and freewheel/cassette bores for those that asked.
My micrometers are SAE unfortunately, so that's the unit you'll get them in. :cry:
Thanks - appreciated.

SAE is fine. Handy pc converter.
Visit Grin Technologies at www.ebikes.ca
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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by Kodin » Jun 26 2015 1:51am

Decided to be lazy about it and just used a digital caliper. Not at all super accurate, but at least it's in MM...

Image
Depth between bearing and end of freehub thread section. (possible seal height).

Image
Bore diameter. I have no idea why it's this specific diameter... Good luck finding seals!

Image
Brake side cover bore diameter. This is easily deep enough for any seal you feel like putting. Plus, you can pop the bearing out and stick a seal behind the lip, then reinstall the bearing if you prefer. (Most likely exactly 28mm bore, and whatever the shaft diameter is would give you a standard seal size).

ISSUES FOUND:
There's several pores indicating a non-uniform casting. This is likely NOT representative of all Leafbike motor covers, this was a prototype built specifically for me per my request. I assume they will eventually be manufacturing a purpose-cast cover for cassette motors.

Image
Image
Image

Further, as you can see, the inner lip is somewhat thin where the freehub flange is bolted to the cover. This somewhat concerns me, but may have enough "meat" for this to never be an issue.

Image

They could have cut the cover to 3mm or thicker and the freehub would have still mounted flush. Right now it sits a bit deep in the bore:
Image
Image

Also, the reason they used a bolt-on design was simply for cost; it's the fastest way to retrofit an existing part to use cassettes. I like this a lot because you can simply swap out whatever breaks if you ever need to. I'd love to buy a few spare cassettes and try modding a MXUS or something if I ever upgrade. Then again, I might just convert to mid-drive if I find my speed lacking.
Tank Bike - (Previously YAG - Yet Another Genesis) - LeafBike 1500W 5t, custom shaft, 9 speed cassette, Chinese "Tank" EEB clone frame, Sabvoton SSC048150

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by markz » Jun 29 2015 6:10pm

So these are all the same motor?

leafmotor.com does not sell the 1500w, only 1000w's.
leafbike, yes I found the 1500w model.

I have been unable to find just "Leaf" whether it be leaf.com or whatever, maybe your talking eBay sales.

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 29 2015 7:15pm

The correct site for the motor is leafbike.com.
I updated the first page on the thread, hopefully making this clear as i've answered this question many times now.

I sent them a big email telling them to get their site together!!
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by SprocketLocket » Jun 30 2015 2:17pm

Nepi, is the reason you aren't using a rear disk because you weren't able to make it work, or you just for some reason didn't care to hook it up? Leafbike sells a spacer for the brake disk they call a 'flange', but they say it's not necessary on this model, because the spacer/disk mount is built-in. My biggest concern, before I pull the trigger, is wondering why someone who goes 45mph would not run a rear brake ("is it because he can't, or doesn't want to?"). But I then realized you never said why. (I may have missed it, but I did look 2x.)

Any recommendations for outside-the-box controllers? Otherwise I will probably go with EM3EV or Lyen, probably 18FET like you recommended. I saw TeslaNV now sells a sine wave controller which comes with a full kit of accessories (ebrakes, throttle, etc), but it is locked to a 72V range, and is non-programmable. I could actually do 72V (and may still), but it's nice to have the flexibility to do 48V with Infineon too.

So you would say this motor doesn't mind 72V long-term?

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 30 2015 2:36pm

I have mentioned many times in this thread and my build thread that i use strong regen in the rear and my bike has no rear disc brake hookup. It's more than adequate. The regen is as strong as a large mechanical disc, maybe stronger. I use the front brake about 25% of the time, mostly when coming to a full stop, to maximize the energy going back into the battery ( why make friction heat, when you can make useful energy? )

Guys, are my posts too wordy? are you not reading? i've had to repeat myself continually. Am i doing something wrong, or are you doing something wrong? :lol:

On that note, leafmotor responded to my note about their webpage and said that they'll fix it.
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by SprocketLocket » Jun 30 2015 3:23pm

I realize you have pointed out you're repeating yourself in this thread more than any other of yours I've seen. I remember when you said you 'just used regen', but what you wrote above wasn't clear at the time. The impression I got at the time, was that you had not been able to make the disk brake work, and therefore had just been settling with the regen. I still don't see why someone wouldn't install a rear brake just for extra safety and control--I don't see what it would hurt. My main concern, or real question, could have been "if you wanted disk brake to work for you on this motor, would you have been able"? So, perhaps I did not make myself clear enough either. I just want to make sure people aren't having problems with their disk brake on this unit. I did end up buying a fat bike, and I hope that mating will be natural. This seems like perhaps the most "drop-in" solution available for those types of bikes right now. So it's a big deal to me in my ordeal to try to get back into biking, with my perhaps extreme desire for safety, after getting lucky on a number of close calls earlier in life, which is basically what the fat part is about, on the terrain I'll be riding (stability/grip).

Nep I remember when you told me how you read for 3 months straight before posting. I actually did the same. I've followed your builds more carefully than anyone else's. I like and understand the way you think. Your contributions have helped me and guided me so much (for instance, studying each build in your sig as a beginner), and it is appreciated beyond what you know, you really don't understand. That includes this latest adventure of yours, which will be my first [custom build], it's really a breakthrough for me.

I've noticed you getting more impatient and trying to mask your frustration with your usual good nature and good humor which are true traits of yours. But I can tell you that even your answers to bad questions others have asked, have helped me. Kind of like when a reporter asks a really dumb question to someone, yet the answer is revealing. So, it's not a waste. Please remain patient.

I know, for instance, that you are using some kind of non-Infineon controller here. I figure that is by choice, and there is something it's doing for you beyond what an Infineon would do, but I don't know more than that. I'm sure you've discussed it somewhere, but I haven't come across is, and so I asked what kind of controller you chose to use for this build, and why, and if you would recommend that over an Infineon. I saw discussion about the 120% mode, but all those discussing it were coming at it understanding exactly what you had already.

I also know you have used 72V for this, so I wasn't asking if 72V "would work [at all]". I was asking if you think it is okay for sustained or permanent use. Most of your high-voltage stuff seems to be for testing. With wanting to go 45mph sustained, I was baffled why you'd stick with 48V at that point. I thought maybe you were concerned of what 72V would do to it. My EE friend says electronics are designed for certain voltages, and I would run into problems running motors at voltages higher than their rating. Yet I see people running high voltages on this forum all the time. It's usually briefly, though.

The reason I ask, is because I'm considering getting their 300-rpm range motor and running it 72V, which I guesstimate (still need to do exact math) would get me up to about 30mph, and I have no desire to go beyond. On 48V it would still probably do me in the low 20s mph, which I think would still work for me, and it should be very efficient at those slower speeds I like to go at. I figure this winding would be slow and powerful enough to climb anything I wanted--and at low speeds--which is what I've been searching for (and not needing to switch gears and be a pro bike mechanic, bud-nipping the valid BBS02 suggestions). I've noticed that off-road terrain REALLY soaks up the torque going up a hill, much more than pavement. I wanted to ask if anyone including you had a reason to warn me off of this plan, other than speed. Maybe the 400-ish rpm winding is more appropriate, particularly for 48V. I'm deciding whether the 300-odd RPM windind is overkill (IIRC it's around 360, or around 60% peak rpm of the default 4T wind).
Last edited by SprocketLocket on Jun 30 2015 4:36pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by mchlpeel » Jun 30 2015 3:47pm

Phew,

Anyone else feel the tension in here?

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 30 2015 5:18pm

I'm glad i've helped you. I just get frustrated that i have been repeating myself for 4 years on dozens of topics. It just seems to me like people don't read before they post often enough. But also, our search function has been broken since the beginning here, and information is difficult to find unless you are willing to spend a lot of time hunting through threads. So, we do have a usability problem on the forum here which i've wanted to fix for eons, but that hasn't happened for various bureaucratic reasons :cry: .. okay, i'm gonna try to settle down now :lol:

If i had the opportunity to install a disc brake, i wouldn't have. It's up to you guys to find out if everything is okay with the disc brake. I understand that if you're offroading a lot, a modulatable disc brake in the rear could help out, but 99% of my riding is on the street, so having strong regen is no issue. I've done just a tiny bit of offroading and not had a problem with rear tire slippage though.. but not up/down any serious offroad hills.

I am using a programmable infineon-type controller ( lyen/em3ev style that's been standard for a long time ), that's how i have 120% mode. I recommend those controllers to pretty much everyone due to their programmability and features.

72v was just a test to see if i could blow the motor. 100% speed is most efficient ( due to internal controller switching dynamics ), so it's important that your battery voltage matches that speed, thus 50-60v would ultimately be ideal. On this controller i currently have, regen does not work at 72v and i'm too lazy to do the infineon r12 mod anyway to change that.. But, charging and balancing 72v is a bother in my opinion; you can balance charge and bulk charge voltages below 60v with many common RC Lipo chargers and bulk chargers, so i like to stick to <60v.

I don't know anything about this 300rpm wind, but i could guess that the torque would be absolute insanity on it. You'd probably want a more expensive controller that has torque throttle functionality instead of the speed control that infineon-like controllers and many others use. Go drop $300 on the experiment and buy a controller that's capable of 100v max so that you could potentially adjust your voltage up or down 2 cells to make it hit the correct 100% speed you're looking for.
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by Kodin » Jun 30 2015 6:06pm

So here's my thought: I went with the 5T wind because it's a good balance between high torque and not having to run super high voltage. This motor is torquey even at 4T and a 5T should hit close to 30 MPH at 48V on a 26 inch wheel. If you like the cassette design I'd say ask for it when you order, it's probably one of the better features for a motor of this class. I've got to source some CrMo tubing so I can build my swing arm soon; once I do I'll post current draw results on my 5T.

Hey Neptronix,

Do you think a direct-plug CAv3 can run as-is or will I need an external shunt for the power levels I'm running?
Tank Bike - (Previously YAG - Yet Another Genesis) - LeafBike 1500W 5t, custom shaft, 9 speed cassette, Chinese "Tank" EEB clone frame, Sabvoton SSC048150

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by neptronix » Jun 30 2015 6:12pm

A CA will handle it. Ever seen a video of someone using one with a MXUS 3000W motor, cromotor, or larger? no problem there. I've pushed 100 amps through them many times. Go look at the ebikes.ca specifications if you want to know more.

Oh, and make sure to get a kV figure on your motor if you can. A cheap ebay laser digital tachometer is something like $10 on eBay.
"Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them, humanity cannot survive." - Dalai Lama

My first major build: 1.6kW 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The new all-arounder: Leafmotor 1500w @ 4kW on a Turner O2 full suspension.
The monster scooter: 20" eZee on a Cannondale Semi Recumbent.
Whipper-snapper: ? on a lightweight BikeE Semi Recumbent

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by Simple818 » Jun 30 2015 6:31pm

mchlpeel wrote:I intend to run the 4t with a Samsung 25R 22.1Ah pack from em3ev

I will also be using an 18 fet controller set to 60 amps max

The 25r is 8c rated so amps shouldn't be much of an issue

Thanks for the info
Dude. That pack will deliver 60 amps no problem. You will probably have like a voltage sag Of like 2.5 volts at most. I have a Sammy 25r pack at only 12.5 ah and I push 60 amps with 3.5-4 volt sag. Another option is to use ex-battery.com. I ordered a pack from them and it is a great pack. Cheaper than Em3ev as well.

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Re: Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Post by Kodin » Jul 01 2015 1:17am

neptronix wrote:A CA will handle it. Ever seen a video of someone using one with a MXUS 3000W motor, cromotor, or larger? no problem there. I've pushed 100 amps through them many times. Go look at the ebikes.ca specifications if you want to know more.

Oh, and make sure to get a kV figure on your motor if you can. A cheap ebay laser digital tachometer is something like $10 on eBay.
Good to know. Also, I have tachometers, IR sensors, arduinos, most of Atmel's product line in general, along with ST, Motorola, and TI, oscilloscopes, photointerruptors, etc.... Let's just say I can find the RPM pretty easily. ...Now where did I put my keys...?

Also, MY SPOKES CAME!!!

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21"x1.6" DID aluminum motorcycle rim, 3.5mm spokes. Had to drill the spoke holes in the motor flanges to 4mm. (Well, 3.98-ish... 3.90mm was too small for the threads to pass through even threaded in) Yes I'll need to add brass washers as the spokes I got are for flanges that are 2-3x thicker than those on my motor. That means I'll have to take it back down again, but I wanted to make sure I got the spoke length right. One item of note: Looks like the spoke holes may not have been drilled quite perfectly centered in reference to the shaft center. Not sure if it's because of how the cover screws are mounted or what; It's only a variance of 1-2mm total, but if you aren't careful you'll watch your drill bit bend, and if you REALLY aren't careful, it'll bend then snap. (I was careful 8) )

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Damn, I may have to start a build thread pretty soon... Only component left is a controller. And maybe mating connectors for my CA as I forgot to order those originally...
Tank Bike - (Previously YAG - Yet Another Genesis) - LeafBike 1500W 5t, custom shaft, 9 speed cassette, Chinese "Tank" EEB clone frame, Sabvoton SSC048150

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