The Hudson is a semi flat foot, semi pedal forward bike. It's probably between a normal bike and a Townie. The Townie is probably more pedal forward. It is easy to stand when needed while riding the Hudson. Getting weight over the pedals is not difficult but getting enough toe touch when stopped is sometimes a problem. Crank length is 170mm and pedal strikes during cornering don't happen. This bike likes aggressive cornering.
Drive train is 1x7, 42 chain ring and Tourney 14x34 freewheel. Shifter is a Grip Shift, I moved it to the left so it can be used while the right thumb throttle is in use. This is my first extended use of a Grip Shift and it works very well as does the Tourney derailleur and freewheel. The 42 chain ring is spiked onto the cranks, it can't be changed but the bottom bracket is 122mm square taper, English threads and can accommodate other cranksets. The bottom bracket needed replacing, I used a 127mm BB and pedal spacing is now better for me. A triple crankset can be used on a Hudson, a clamp on derailleur will probably fit on the seat tube. This is different than a Townie, which needs a false seat tube that only comes on triple equipped Townies. The frame has a place for an internal housing run for the front derailleur. 42x14 gives a nice spin between 15 and 19 mph. 42x34 along with electric assist gives respectable climb, pedaling hard at 80 rpm.
Frame is aluminum with a low and rear slanting downward top tube. I use a false top tube adapter so the Hudson can fit on my bike rack along with my wife's Townie. Bikes wheels sit in cradles on this bike rack. Top tube hooks come downward, and the top tube is too low without the adapter gizmo.
A standard rear rack will work if longer braces are made for attachment to the seat stays.
Seat post is 31.6mm, I use a Cane Creek adapter, 27.2 to 31.6mm, I can use an existing suspension seatpost. It works but not with quick release clamping only, some Allen wrench tightening is needed too. Seat is a Cloud 9, C9, the never ending saddle pain has ended.
The handle bars were too low and too far forward. I used riser and swept back bars from a Motiv bike.
Front fork is steel, it works well with a front hub motor.
Front hub motor is an Aotema direct drive, it works extremely well. The battery, chain, etc are carried in a Harbor Freight 15" bag, mounted on a HF cutting board, mounted on top of the rear rack.
Ride characteristics are very good but standing is needed on rough stuff, it is a rigid bike after all. Cornering, well leaned over, in the tight stuff is very good. The only negative is it's too easy and too much fun to ride too fast in the twisty stuff. Hmmm, that doesn't seem very negative.
Hope this helps someone,
Mike S in San Antonio.
General Discussion about electric bicycles.
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